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If we only had a week in Ecuador...

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We think we will return to the real world one day, at which point we probably won’t be able to spend a full month in Ecuador. For the sake of planning our return trip – and lending a hand to any of you who might want to go yourselves – we each broke down our favorites into two very different, but equally thrilling, 1-week vacations!

So, with no further ado…

Option #1:

Elizabeth’s “See-It-All-But-Remember-You’re-on-Vacation” Itinerary

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Day 0, Friday

Depending on flights, this might require a half-day off work. From Atlanta, the flight is only about 5 hours and leaves at dinner time with arrival in Quito close to midnight. Heads up, this can be confusing with hotel bookings, since you will need a place to sleep the night of arrival (i.e. if your flight ends at 12:01 a.m. on the 28th, you need a room on the 27th)!



Day 1, Saturday

In the late morning, take a walking tour of Quito’s historic center and its 7 cathedrals, then have lunch nearby at Hasta La Vuelta, Senor. The restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of a building on the Plaza Grande. I loved the empanada de viento (massive cheese empanada) and shrimp ceviche. In the afternoon, take the Teleferico to the top for incredible views of the city and the surrounding volcanoes! If you are struggling with the high altitude (i.e. headache, lethargy), skip this, take a nap, avoid alcohol, and chug water! There is a lot to see in Quito, but it’s okay to rest on vacation! I would finish up the day with a local craft beer at Bandido Brewing, followed by dinner at Somos Restaurant



Day 2, Sunday

Hop on an early morning flight to the Galapagos. We documented how much there is to see in the rest of Ecuador, but I can’t imagine going back and not spending time exploring more of these pristine islands. I’d go straight to the port near the airport for a 4-day, 3-night cruise



Days 3 & 4, Monday & Tuesday 

Cruising

The cruise lengths can be deceiving, based on our experience. Sunday would be Day 1 and Day 4 would involve an early morning drop off at the airport on Wednesday, so the 4-day cruise is really only ~2.5 days of exploring. 



Day 5, Wednesday

Finish up the cruise early in the morning and spend a day and night in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.  The day I shopped and wandered around this quaint-yet-bustling port town (while Mike was scuba diving) was one of my favorite days in Ecuador.



Days 6 & 7, Thursday & Friday

Thursday morning, head to the airport for a connecting flight to Cuenca. Take a few days to enjoy everything we described in our Cuenca post!  This would be the time for hiking in the nearby national park, reading by the river and napping.  



Day 8, Saturday 

Travel day! Flights back to the USA leave at night, so we had fun spending most of the last day in Cuenca.  With arrival very early on Sunday morning, the last day of vacation can be dedicated to resting at home and getting ready for whatever the real world involves on Monday morning.  

 

 

Option #2:

Mike’s “Ultimate Week-Long Ecuadorian Adventure, Minus the Galápagos”

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Disclaimer: While Elizabeth made sure to jam the Galápagos into her itinerary above, I’m of the opinion that is a completely separate trip. To do it right, I’d recommend budgeting a full week there alone, at least!


Day 0, Friday

Wake up and chug a bottle of water, first thing. Take a half day off work, and head to the airport. Chug more water. Arrive to your hotel or Airbnb in Quito by midnight, chug another glass of water, and get a good night’s sleep.


Day 1, Saturday

Wake up early (~7am), chug more water, grab coffee, hop in a rental car, and drive 2 hours north to a town called Otovalo. Start at the weekly livestock market (only on Saturdays) just outside of town for a little shock factor and then head into the indigenous village to shop around the lively artisanal market. Here, you’ll be able to find all your souvenirs for the week at half the price (the Otovalo market is where most store owners in Ecuador come to get their goods!). Have a quick lunch in town and stop by the Cascada de Peguche (waterfall) on your way back to Quito. 

Rest for a bit, then finish the day with a night tour of the historic district (shoutout to Airbnb Experiences) and a late dinner at Somos Restaurant, our favorite high-end Ecuadorian/American fusion spot.


Day 2, Sunday

Sleep in. Now that you have your bearings a bit from the tour, spend the morning strolling around the empty streets of Quito while everyone is at Mass. Better yet, rent a bike and join the locals for Ciclopaseo, which runs from 8am-2pm in many parts of Quito. Refuel over lunch at Llama Love, a hole-in-the-wall mexican restaurant with delicious tacos.

In the afternoon, be sure to hop down to La Ronda, the historic pedestrian street flooded with authentic shops, cafes and restaurants. Trek over to Bandido Brewery, our favorite spot to grab cerveza on draft and order the nachos if you’re still hungry. As this will be your last evening in Quito, I’d recommend bouncing around the city as much as possible before grabbing an early sushi dinner at Shibumi (we went 2x and ordered the chef’s selection both times… unreal!).


Day 3, Monday

Wake up at the crack of dawn and visit El Teleferico, a big gondola that takes you high into the mountains above Quito. It opens at 8am, so try to arrive around then to maximize your day. At the top, you’ll have panoramic views of Quito and be able to see multiple volcanoes on the horizon (including Cotopaxi, which you’ll be visiting in a couple days!). Afterwards, head back to your place, load up your rental car (SUV!) and drive 3 hrs south to Quilotoa

There, you’ll be visiting the extremely photogenic crater lake (photos). When you get there, park in town, walk up a small hill to the crater rim, and prepare to have your breath taken away. 

Then, take your time walking all the way down to the crater lake, where you can rent canoes. Be sure to take a bunch of photos before the somewhat exhausting hike back up to the top of the crater rim! You can also pay to ride a tiny smelly donkey back to the top (but I wouldn’t…). Spend the night at the nearby Hacienda La Cienega, a 400+ year old estate that has been converted into a boutique hotel. Have some wine and eat at the hotel restaurant, then chug more water and hop in bed! 


Day 4, Tuesday

Again, wake up early and drive to the base of Cotopaxi for a bike tour. Meet your guides (we used the Biking Dutchman; they provided everything, including lunch), and they’ll take you up the mountain for a few-hour-long ride. 

Pro tip: bring a GoPro as you’ll get some cool timelapse footage of the ride. Once you finish up (~2pm), start your scenic drive about 3 hours farther south to Baños, which is known as the adventure capital of Ecuador. It’s a little pricey, but if you can swing it, stay a night at the Samari Spa Resort. Get a cheap massage in the spa, chill by the indoor pool and have dinner served on a hot volcanic rock. Sleep easy.

Day 5, Wednesday

Wake up early and start the guided adventure tour of your choice. Options include: canyoning, rafting, ATV riding, horseback riding, etc. Have lunch at Leoni Pizza in town (use the passion fruit hot sauce!), followed by some gourmet hot chocolate or a milkshake (my preference) at Aromi Cafe, the chocolatier across the street. 

On your way out of town, I’d pick one of the following to check out: either El Pailon del Diablo, one of the largest waterfalls in Ecuador, or, Casa del Arbol, a massive swing high above the mountains (do it for the ‘gram!). Hop back in your car and ride 2.5 hours to Tena, a town known as the gateway to the Amazon. Arrange for a canoe transfer to take you up river to the Itamandi Eco Lodge. Hopefully you’ll have arrived in time for dinner and the guided night walk full of wildlife.


Days 6 & 7, Thursday & Friday

Once you get to Itamandi, you’re kind of at the mercy of their schedule, which consists of daily guided tours around the jungle. For the next couple of days, immerse yourself in the local indigenous culture, take photos of exotic wildlife, and enjoy your time off the grid in the Amazon rainforest. For me, this visit to Itamandi was probably my favorite part of Ecuador as its awesomeness was much less expected than that of the Galápagos Islands. 


Day 8, Saturday

Now it’s time to head home. Leave Itamandi after breakfast, and drive the 3.5 hours back to the Quito airport (to be safe, budget 5 hours for the drive as the roads are dicey at best; see this post for all the details). Hop on the plane and get back Stateside early Sunday morning!

Cuenca: Our Favorite City in Ecuador?

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Following our cruise in the Galápagos, we were tired. We returned to our home base in Quito for a couple nights, but we made up our minds that we’d be leaving soon to spend our final few days in Cuenca, an hour flight to the South. 

Our hotel was right in the heart of historic Cuenca. Keeping with the theme of our trip, the center of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its myriad of well-preserved, Spanish Colonial style buildings. 

Similar to our stay in Baños a couple weeks prior, our visit to Cuenca was tranquil. In fact, at one point, over a bottle of wine in our hotel garden, Elizabeth uncontrollably proclaimed, “this is the most tranquil place in the world.” The whole town just had an easygoing vibe about it.

A few things stand out above the rest:


The city center is super close to the airport.

Upon arrival, the cab ride to our hotel took about 15 minutes, and it only cost a few bucks. For perspective, that’s less than half the time it took to get to the airport in Quito. Huge deal!

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Walking (or biking) the Rio Tomebamba.

There’s a clean and not-too-busy trail that highlighted our time in Cuenca – we spent an hour or so each day strolling along the picturesque riverwalk. We were told that biking was the way to go, so we tried to rent bikes from a local hostel. Unfortunately, we learned they recently did away with their day bike rental offering, so we decided to lace up our sneakers and stay on foot. Here’s a photo of Elizabeth loving it all:

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Dinner at Tiestos (
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This spot was the bomb. Highly recommended by an American chef we met in Quito, we ate here on our last night. It took us about 30 seconds to decide on the pre fixe option #1 on the menu, and it proved to be the best meal we had in Ecuador. Here’s what we got, to split:

  • Sopa de Camarones (shrimp soup)

  • Langostinos al Tiesto (prawns cooked in melted butter, served with potatoes)

  • Pollo al Curry con Macadamias (curry chicken w/ thin macadamia nuts)

  • Lomo Fino a la Crema y Tomate (beef tenderloin)

  • Postre (dessert: the most beautifully-plated chocolate cake imaginable)

  • Copa de vino blanco (glass of white wine x2)

  • Copa de vino tinto (glass of red wine x2)

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And last but not least – our hotel was stunning.

After a rather exhausting trip to the Galápagos, we opted for a balcony suite in an upscale boutique hotel called Mansión Alcázar. The rates seemed as reasonable as any 4+ star hotel back in the States, and the location was perfect, so we went for it. Upon arrival, the kind folks at the front desk informed us that we’d been upgraded to a bigger suite built just two months prior (check!). After a short walk through lush private gardens rivaled only by Elizabeth’s parents’ garden back in Indianapolis (aka our wedding venue), we stepped into our suite, which was complete with climate-controlled (heated) tile floors, a stainless steel kitchenette, a king bed (duh) and a master bathroom the size of our old studio apartment back in New York City. Photos can’t do the place justice, but here’s one anyways:

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It was a short, three-night visit, but it didn’t take long to decide that we’d be back one day. A beautiful little town nestled between multiple rivers, Cuenca felt far cleaner and better-preserved than Quito. We highly recommend visiting to see for yourself!

Cruising through the Galápagos Islands

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Our time in the Galápagos was a blur of jaw-dropping scenery and exotic wildlife. We decided to do a cruise as we realized this would allow the greatest amount of time spent in the most eclectic regions. The islands are fairly spread out, so traveling on a cruise boat is easier than day trips via the public ferries. 

Also, many islands are restricted and can only be accessed by small dinghies with a naturalist guide who has permission from the National Park Service. So, even though we aren’t the biggest fans of cruise boats, we opted for 5 days and 4 nights on the Sea Star Journey boat.  

Our boat took the route below:

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The cruise was intimate as there were only 14 guests total, including ourselves. Sailing this way meant loads of time together, and luckily, we got along great with everyone!

Our group consisted of a French family of four and eight Chinese women. We ate every meal with the French family and got to know them well. The dad, Olivier, was fluent in English and his wife, Valerie, had a warm personality and spoke better English than she gave herself credit. Their two boys shared Mike’s love of snorkeling and the six of us enjoyed conversations ranging from politics to the possibility of us moving to Paris to Thanksgiving traditions. The Chinese ladies were incredible photographers, and they sent us all of their photos each night (most of the wildlife pictures in this post came from them...shoutout to Yu and Cally!) and they invited us to visit them during our time in China next spring.  

With a day on each end of the cruise dedicated to getting on and off of the boat, we really had three full days to explore. Each night, our naturalist guide broke down the next day’s itinerary on a whiteboard so the guests were all on the same page. They kept us busy!

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Day 1 - Santa Cruz Island

Highlights: seeing blue-footed boobies for the first time, getting up close and personal with the sea lions, and having our dinghy breakdown in a cove while watching sharks swim beneath us.
(click the right side of the photo carousel below to view more photos —>)

Day 2 - Genovesa Island

Highlights: fur sea lions, thousands of birds (so many that Mike got pooped on), snorkeling with too many sharks, and kayaking.
(click the right side of the photo carousel below to view more photos —>)

Day 3 - Bartolomé Island

Highlights: Mars-like scenery, snorkeling with hundreds of starfish, and a penguin sighting. 
(click the right side of the photo carousel below to view more photos —>)

The final day involved an early wake-up call to go see the giant tortoises back on Santa Cruz Island before heading to Baltra airport for our flight back to Quito.  

The giant tortoises were as promised...GIANT!

Galápagos tortoises can weigh more than 600 pounds and can live for over 200 years, and the population of tortoises in the Galápagos is critically endangered.  Unfortunately, explorers and pirates tended to take the smaller of the tortoises because they were easier to transport, but in the end, the smaller ones happened to be all of the females, making reproduction a mechanical difficulty.  The islands now have strict laws about the tortoises; for example, even if a tortoise is on private property, the tortoise itself belongs to the National Park Service.  

We have to admit they were a bit anticlimactic and considering we were watching them at 6 a.m., we were craving coffee and thinking of our upcoming flight, but the tortoises shelled out their fair share of entertainment nonetheless. 

Our trip to the Galápagos Islands served as a healthy reminder of two surprising things: one, it’s fun for the two of us, as English-speaking Americans, to be the odd ones out every once in a while; and two, the more we can do to protect the oceans, the better.

When (not if) we do it again, here are three things we would do differently!

  1. Minimize the number of trips between Baltra airport and Puerto Ayora (the awesome, quaint town on Santa Cruz island). Getting from the airport to the city involves a bus/taxi to a ferry to another bus/taxi, which takes at least an hour. It’s just a bit of a hassle, and we did it one too many times. 

  2. Visit during the “hot” season, from January through May. Although we were comfortable during the land excursions, the water was COLD! We wore wetsuits while snorkeling and still had a blast, but we would’ve liked to stay in the water longer than we did. 

  3. Instead of going so far north to Genovesa island, we would probably explore the western islands that are closer together. Our cruise spent a lot of time sailing, and quite a few people on the boat were seasick. Plus, the less time you spend sailing, the more time you are on one of the 15+ islands!

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