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Elizabeth's note on long-term travel

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We had a realization this week: traveling the world for the year is not the easiest thing to do. It’d be a lot easier to pack up tonight to go home instead of the next foreign country. I wouldn’t say we are “homesick” because that makes it sound like more of a constant problem; whereas the feeling we have comes in waves and when we least expect it. We intermittently miss the stability and the people back home.  

It’s hitting us now for two reasons: one, home and Morocco are disparate worlds, and we’ve been here for almost three weeks; two, we have a ton of logistics to work out for our next 2-3 months of travel. The world is indeed our oyster, but frankly, it’s overwhelming. 

We feel pressure to see off-the-beaten-path places, but the trouble is finding them. The idea is to escape the big cities with their main attractions and tourists haphazardly wielding selfie sticks. We’ve also realized it’s challenging but necessary to find what’s native and avoid what’s been designed as tourist traps. The problem is that doing so means intensive research, more unknowns, and additional travel time.  

I felt like I was reading a well-written version of my own thoughts the other day when I opened up the August issue of Conde Nast Traveler, titled, “The New Nomad.” Melinda Stevens, the editor in chief, summed up the way we’ve been feeling about travel lately, saying:

“And yet recently I’ve begun to wonder about the joy of travel, when the world feels infinite and full of curiosity, when it illuminates itself to us, and we—backs straight, eyes blazing—shine within it. I wonder whether our yearning for it has become so intense that we’re crushing the very thing we love the most. On various trips in recent years, to small American cities, to out-of-the-way coasts, even to deserts, I have been shocked to the core by the sudden wall of us, the swarms of us, the sheer scale of our numbers…And I think this will be crucial going forward, to focus on the off-grid, the overlooked, the ungentrified, the forgotten, the places that will resonate because we have not fiddled with them, and we have not required them to become parodies of themselves.”

Melinda, if there’s any chance you ever read this, you nailed it! 

All that said, our house is rented until May and all of our belongings are in storage, so we aren’t going home! We know how we’re feeling is totally normal. Soon, we will be loving the next stop on our world tour, and I won’t be able to believe I ever wrote this post. But hey, what’s the point of this blog if we aren’t being honest about how we’re feeling right now?

But, we thoroughly enjoyed our final week in Marrakech, and we hope you’ll equally enjoy our post below about the touristy and a few not-so-touristy spots we visited.

P.S. 

Here is a link to the full Editor’s letter.  And if you want to read the full magazine, which I recommend, I thought I would share one of my favorite travel hacks - my public library app. I get tons of magazines, books, and audiobooks for free on my iPad and iPhone all with my Public Library card and an app called Libby. I don’t have room to pack or the strength to carry the real deal. Nor do I have time for the overpriced magazines found at the airport. A delayed flight isn’t as bad when you have 6 magazines and a book downloaded.   

Our guide to taking it easy in the crazy Marrakech Medina

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We originally planned to stay in Marrakech for a month.

Before we arrived, we heard several nerve-wracking stories – so many stories that we actually altered our plans!

Now we’ve been here a week and a half, play the Marrakesh Express on repeat, and wish we had more time here!

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Before we get started, here are a few keywords we added to our vocabulary!

Riad

a traditional Moroccan home with an interior garden. Luckily for us, some larger Riads were converted into mini-hotels.  


Medina

“city” in Arabic, but in Marrakech, the Medina specifically refers to the old, walled part of the city. Most of the Medina is off-limits to cars, and roads are less than 8-feet wide.

Souks

the labyrinth of markets in the middle of the Medina where you’ll be mesmerized by the handmade Moroccan goods.


The Riad of all Riads

First off, our home base, the Riad Porte Royale, is absolutely amazing. If you are coming to Marrakech, we think this place is step number one for having a good time. There are only 5 rooms so the diligent manager, Adam, and chef, Nagat, have time to get to know the guests and help them plan just about anything. The room rate includes an insanely big breakfast and upon special request, we even had a home-cooked dinner here by the pool for about $20/pp. 

When we first arrived, Adam sat down with us to tell us about the city while Nagat prepared mint tea for us. This was one of the best introductions we’ve ever had to a city. Adam patiently showed us a map of the Medina, circling the best places and drawing an X on places to avoid. He talked to us about getting around, avoiding scams, and his favorite restaurants.  We couldn’t live without the app he asked us to download called HereWeGo. This is similar to downloading an offline map on Google Maps or Maps.Me, but this app actually works here in the city! A lifesaver.  

The smaller sized Riad makes it possible to get to know the other guests as well which has been a lot of fun for us. We spent a couple of nights with the other guests, all of us with our feet in the pool after a long day exploring the Medina. There are also plenty of private lounge spaces tucked away if you’re looking for some alone time to read a book or take a nap. On Friday night, a group of us decided to save some money on a camel ride and dinner excursion by going together. That wouldn’t have happened at a typical hotel!

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The location of the Riad is also important. Here at Riad Port Royal, we are in the Medina, but we are only a 5-minute walk from the city wall where we can exit the Medina and hail a taxi.  There is a lot to do outside of the Medina, so access to taxis is helpful. Being in the Medina is key to having an authentic experience in Marrakech, but being too far into the Medina would present its own set of logistical issues. So again, this place is perfect.  

Souks

Integral to the fabric of the Medina are the souks, where artisans offer (often) handmade goods. One of our favorite daily activities has become perusing the crowded souks and mingling with the locals. 

The souk owners are often personable, convincing men, and at this point we’ve seen just about every trick in the book in terms of sales tactics. Avoid the guys who seem desperate for your business or go out of their way to make physical contact with you. No thanks!

Despite the fact that the souks can often become chaotic, we still highly recommend checking them out. There are countless Moroccan treasures hidden within. Just remember – always negotiate! 

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Our rules for the souks:

  • We act uninterested, even if we LOVE something

  • Don’t point at items (this is a quick way to start a conversation with the shop owner)

  • Ask for a price before making an offer

  • Start the back-and-forth negotiation around 10-20% of the owner’s number

  • Always have a fixed price in mind. Don’t mind walking away if the seller won’t come down on their price!  

  • The owners normally won’t let us walk away, and if they do, the product might be worth their number!

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Day trip to Essaouira

From Marrakech, there are several options for day trips to nearby cities. About a week into our stay, we were ready for a change of scenery and chose to visit Essaouria, a gorgeous beach town about 2.5 hrs to the west by car. We took a private driver which our riad manager, Adam, helped arrange. Known as The Windy City of Morocco, some of Game of Thrones was set in this little port city (we think the scenes from Slaver’s Bay). We spent the whole day walking around the Medina and people watching on the beach! Oh – and on the drive out there, we took a quick roadside pitstop to see the famous goats in trees!

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Camel riding and dinner in the desert

The desert scenery and the company were by far the highlights of our desert excursion, not necessarily the camels themselves. We felt a little bad for the camels; they were all tied together during our ride so they couldn’t roam free at all and they didn’t seem especially well taken care of by the tour group. Nonetheless, we got a kick out of riding the camels and enjoyed a wonderful dinner in a luxury tent set up in an old Berber village.  

Again, Adam from our Riad coordinated this trip for us! 

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Rug shopping

We took orders from family and had fun negotiation for some high-quality rugs in a shop called Kasr Ben Hayoune , which felt like a palace. The shop is located in the Jewish Quarter and is managed by an animated salesman named Hassan. Be prepared to stay for a long time and don’t let him make you feel bad for negotiating! They’ll also show you 20+ rugs, but don’t feel bad to walk away with just a few or none at all. Seeing all of the rugs is part of the fun! We liked this shop because we trusted the quality of the rugs and the integrity of the business.  The best part was that shipping to the USA was included in our negotiated price and handled by the shop, making that process more streamlined than expected.  

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Moroccan cuisine

Some of our favorite food so far has been eaten at the Riad, thanks to Najet!  We’ve also found ourselves at a group of restaurants with the same owner: Nomad, Le Jardin, and Cafe des Epices.  Last night we went to a place called Exotic Bali Food. If you’ve been to Bali then you’ll understand our excitement over a plate of Nasi Goreng.  Our favorite Moroccan staples include mint tea, kefta sandwiches, chicken or meatball tajines, a variety of salads, and fresh bread.

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What’s left in Morocco?

Believe it or not, there are a few things we haven’t done (yet!). For starters, we’d like to try some street food.  We were a little intimidated after a few days with upset stomachs when we first arrived, but we’re feeling brave with adjusted stomachs of steel, so street food is on the docket this week.  We still want to visit a hammam, similar to a public bath, for a traditional Moroccan spa treatment. Lastly, we are getting better, but we’d also love to get to and from our Riad without a map. That might be asking too much of ourselves, though.  


Update on our travel plans
:

We’ll be moving around quite a bit over the next few weeks, straying away from our one month in each country itinerary. Here’s where we’re heading through the first week of October.

We’ll spend one more week in Morocco before we head to Spain. In a week’s time, we’ll visit Marbella, Seville, Ciudad Real, and Madrid. This leg of the trip was planned because of Morocco’s proximity to Spain and because of a good flight we found from Madrid to our next stop, Entebbe, Uganda. 

We’re going gorilla trekking in Uganda, which involves hiking deep into the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to witness silverback gorillas in their natural habitats and communities, and then traveling to the Serengeti in Tanzania for a safari.  This portion of the trip means tons of crazy animal pictures headed your way! Then we’ll have about two weeks in Europe before taking off for India, where we’ll be back on our month-to-month schedule!  

Thanks so much for reading.  As always, send comments or messages to hello@thedailywax.com. Until next time!  

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If we only had a week in Ecuador...

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We think we will return to the real world one day, at which point we probably won’t be able to spend a full month in Ecuador. For the sake of planning our return trip – and lending a hand to any of you who might want to go yourselves – we each broke down our favorites into two very different, but equally thrilling, 1-week vacations!

So, with no further ado…

Option #1:

Elizabeth’s “See-It-All-But-Remember-You’re-on-Vacation” Itinerary

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Day 0, Friday

Depending on flights, this might require a half-day off work. From Atlanta, the flight is only about 5 hours and leaves at dinner time with arrival in Quito close to midnight. Heads up, this can be confusing with hotel bookings, since you will need a place to sleep the night of arrival (i.e. if your flight ends at 12:01 a.m. on the 28th, you need a room on the 27th)!



Day 1, Saturday

In the late morning, take a walking tour of Quito’s historic center and its 7 cathedrals, then have lunch nearby at Hasta La Vuelta, Senor. The restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of a building on the Plaza Grande. I loved the empanada de viento (massive cheese empanada) and shrimp ceviche. In the afternoon, take the Teleferico to the top for incredible views of the city and the surrounding volcanoes! If you are struggling with the high altitude (i.e. headache, lethargy), skip this, take a nap, avoid alcohol, and chug water! There is a lot to see in Quito, but it’s okay to rest on vacation! I would finish up the day with a local craft beer at Bandido Brewing, followed by dinner at Somos Restaurant



Day 2, Sunday

Hop on an early morning flight to the Galapagos. We documented how much there is to see in the rest of Ecuador, but I can’t imagine going back and not spending time exploring more of these pristine islands. I’d go straight to the port near the airport for a 4-day, 3-night cruise



Days 3 & 4, Monday & Tuesday 

Cruising

The cruise lengths can be deceiving, based on our experience. Sunday would be Day 1 and Day 4 would involve an early morning drop off at the airport on Wednesday, so the 4-day cruise is really only ~2.5 days of exploring. 



Day 5, Wednesday

Finish up the cruise early in the morning and spend a day and night in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.  The day I shopped and wandered around this quaint-yet-bustling port town (while Mike was scuba diving) was one of my favorite days in Ecuador.



Days 6 & 7, Thursday & Friday

Thursday morning, head to the airport for a connecting flight to Cuenca. Take a few days to enjoy everything we described in our Cuenca post!  This would be the time for hiking in the nearby national park, reading by the river and napping.  



Day 8, Saturday 

Travel day! Flights back to the USA leave at night, so we had fun spending most of the last day in Cuenca.  With arrival very early on Sunday morning, the last day of vacation can be dedicated to resting at home and getting ready for whatever the real world involves on Monday morning.  

 

 

Option #2:

Mike’s “Ultimate Week-Long Ecuadorian Adventure, Minus the Galápagos”

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Disclaimer: While Elizabeth made sure to jam the Galápagos into her itinerary above, I’m of the opinion that is a completely separate trip. To do it right, I’d recommend budgeting a full week there alone, at least!


Day 0, Friday

Wake up and chug a bottle of water, first thing. Take a half day off work, and head to the airport. Chug more water. Arrive to your hotel or Airbnb in Quito by midnight, chug another glass of water, and get a good night’s sleep.


Day 1, Saturday

Wake up early (~7am), chug more water, grab coffee, hop in a rental car, and drive 2 hours north to a town called Otovalo. Start at the weekly livestock market (only on Saturdays) just outside of town for a little shock factor and then head into the indigenous village to shop around the lively artisanal market. Here, you’ll be able to find all your souvenirs for the week at half the price (the Otovalo market is where most store owners in Ecuador come to get their goods!). Have a quick lunch in town and stop by the Cascada de Peguche (waterfall) on your way back to Quito. 

Rest for a bit, then finish the day with a night tour of the historic district (shoutout to Airbnb Experiences) and a late dinner at Somos Restaurant, our favorite high-end Ecuadorian/American fusion spot.


Day 2, Sunday

Sleep in. Now that you have your bearings a bit from the tour, spend the morning strolling around the empty streets of Quito while everyone is at Mass. Better yet, rent a bike and join the locals for Ciclopaseo, which runs from 8am-2pm in many parts of Quito. Refuel over lunch at Llama Love, a hole-in-the-wall mexican restaurant with delicious tacos.

In the afternoon, be sure to hop down to La Ronda, the historic pedestrian street flooded with authentic shops, cafes and restaurants. Trek over to Bandido Brewery, our favorite spot to grab cerveza on draft and order the nachos if you’re still hungry. As this will be your last evening in Quito, I’d recommend bouncing around the city as much as possible before grabbing an early sushi dinner at Shibumi (we went 2x and ordered the chef’s selection both times… unreal!).


Day 3, Monday

Wake up at the crack of dawn and visit El Teleferico, a big gondola that takes you high into the mountains above Quito. It opens at 8am, so try to arrive around then to maximize your day. At the top, you’ll have panoramic views of Quito and be able to see multiple volcanoes on the horizon (including Cotopaxi, which you’ll be visiting in a couple days!). Afterwards, head back to your place, load up your rental car (SUV!) and drive 3 hrs south to Quilotoa

There, you’ll be visiting the extremely photogenic crater lake (photos). When you get there, park in town, walk up a small hill to the crater rim, and prepare to have your breath taken away. 

Then, take your time walking all the way down to the crater lake, where you can rent canoes. Be sure to take a bunch of photos before the somewhat exhausting hike back up to the top of the crater rim! You can also pay to ride a tiny smelly donkey back to the top (but I wouldn’t…). Spend the night at the nearby Hacienda La Cienega, a 400+ year old estate that has been converted into a boutique hotel. Have some wine and eat at the hotel restaurant, then chug more water and hop in bed! 


Day 4, Tuesday

Again, wake up early and drive to the base of Cotopaxi for a bike tour. Meet your guides (we used the Biking Dutchman; they provided everything, including lunch), and they’ll take you up the mountain for a few-hour-long ride. 

Pro tip: bring a GoPro as you’ll get some cool timelapse footage of the ride. Once you finish up (~2pm), start your scenic drive about 3 hours farther south to Baños, which is known as the adventure capital of Ecuador. It’s a little pricey, but if you can swing it, stay a night at the Samari Spa Resort. Get a cheap massage in the spa, chill by the indoor pool and have dinner served on a hot volcanic rock. Sleep easy.

Day 5, Wednesday

Wake up early and start the guided adventure tour of your choice. Options include: canyoning, rafting, ATV riding, horseback riding, etc. Have lunch at Leoni Pizza in town (use the passion fruit hot sauce!), followed by some gourmet hot chocolate or a milkshake (my preference) at Aromi Cafe, the chocolatier across the street. 

On your way out of town, I’d pick one of the following to check out: either El Pailon del Diablo, one of the largest waterfalls in Ecuador, or, Casa del Arbol, a massive swing high above the mountains (do it for the ‘gram!). Hop back in your car and ride 2.5 hours to Tena, a town known as the gateway to the Amazon. Arrange for a canoe transfer to take you up river to the Itamandi Eco Lodge. Hopefully you’ll have arrived in time for dinner and the guided night walk full of wildlife.


Days 6 & 7, Thursday & Friday

Once you get to Itamandi, you’re kind of at the mercy of their schedule, which consists of daily guided tours around the jungle. For the next couple of days, immerse yourself in the local indigenous culture, take photos of exotic wildlife, and enjoy your time off the grid in the Amazon rainforest. For me, this visit to Itamandi was probably my favorite part of Ecuador as its awesomeness was much less expected than that of the Galápagos Islands. 


Day 8, Saturday

Now it’s time to head home. Leave Itamandi after breakfast, and drive the 3.5 hours back to the Quito airport (to be safe, budget 5 hours for the drive as the roads are dicey at best; see this post for all the details). Hop on the plane and get back Stateside early Sunday morning!