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Our go-to spots in and around Marrakech!

Marrakech has been an incredible home base the past few weeks, stretching us in new ways and showing us a much more unique adventure than Ecuador ever could. We’ll surely be back to Morocco in the future! 

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Our favorite things to do around Marrakech:


Cooking class

This was one of the most authentic activities we’ve done in Marrakech. We found a cooking class through Airbnb Experiences hosted by Najlae, a local woman who was about our age. She taught the class in her family’s home in a quiet neighborhood about 25 minutes from our Riad. We turned out to be her only students which gave us lots of time to talk. 

Hosting this class on Airbnb has given her the ability to start her own business and contribute to her family in a way that makes her really happy. She’s able to set her own schedule, share her home and culture with people from around the world, and has even taught herself English over the last 6 months of teaching daily cooking classes. 

We feasted on a chicken tajine with preserved lemon, mint tea, and a variety of Moroccan salads. One of the highlights of the class was taking a break just before the food was ready to walk to the local bakery.  Najlae told us that each neighborhood has an ancient oven which is used to produce fresh, traditional Moroccan bread all day long. The bakery is typically just around the corner from the local hammam because the heat from the oven creates the sauna as well.     

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Yves Saint Laurent Museum (plus Jardin Majorelle)

A short walk outside the north end of the Medina, is the somewhat newly established museum honoring and showcasing the life’s work of the famed fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent. We enjoyed being able to see a chronological depiction of his evolution as a designer all under one roof. As a bonus, there’s an expansive botanical garden next door called Jardin Majorelle for which we also bought a ticket –super cool way to spend a morning, bouncing back and forth between these two hot spots. Hint: go early before it gets hot outside and beat the big crowds inside!

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Moroccan hammam experience

Customary here in Morocco are the hammams (ancient baths). The hammams involve a massage with a sand-papery mitten meant to exfoliate the skin. Don’t worry, they gave us funny disposable underwear to put on beforehand and the whole experience was enjoyable despite the nudity and intense scrub.

Sorry, no photos! (haha)

Day trip to Ait Ben Haddou

Located roughly three hours from Marrakech, this iconic hillside town boasts famous scenes from Gladiator and Game of Thrones. Almost 4 hours each way from Marrakech, this was an aggressive day trip. The town was the perfect example of a tourist attraction where it’s nearly impossible to tell what’s real. 

For example, our guide in Ait Ben Haddou claimed to still live in the famous city, but when he showed us his home, he immediately led us to his dining room with tons of rugs sewn by his mother that were all shockingly for sale. Was it his dining room or a rug shop? Did his mom live there or across the river in the new city where it seemed everyone actually lived? 

In his defense, he played an Unsullied soldier in Game of Thrones, so we were fairly starstruck and happily went along with his story. While we’d love to know the truth about the guide’s life, we didn’t question him in the moment because that might’ve come off the wrong way.

Along the way, we stopped at some very scenic overlooks and the famous Kasbah Telouet. A kasbah is a wealthy, powerful person’s home, similar to a palace, but smaller. We are still fascinated by the story of Thami El Glaoui who ruled in this Kasbah. El Glaoui had hundreds of slaves, five wives, eighty-five concubines, and hosted parties for the likes of Winston Churchill up until his ousting and death 1953. Because El Glaoui opposed King Muhammad V of Morocco, his Kasbah has not been well preserved or protected by today’s monarchy.

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Oasis Festival 2019

We bought tickets a few months ago when we realized this music festival would be happening during our time in Marrakech and Elizabeth’s birthday weekend! Located at a hotel resort 20 minutes outside Marrakech, the festival was decked in Instagrammable decor (as expected) with the centerpiece being a large pool accompanied by floaties galore. Moroccan rugs, lamps and fashion scattered everywhere!

The music component of Oasis included four stages and the genre was almost entirely electronic with DJ sets going as late as 5AM. We bounced before midnight the two nights we attended, and actually skipped night three altogether because we’d just had enough. Definitely wasn’t our preferred flavor of music, but we’re not upset we tried it either.

Unfortunately, we didn’t end up with many high-quality still photos. Check out @theoasisfest on Instagram to get a good glimpse of the vibe.

Bahia Palace

One of the royal family’s many palaces, the Palais Bahia sits on a massive plot of land surrounded by gardens. It’s adjacent to the Jewish Quarter of Marrakech in the southern portion of the old Medina. After a couple failed attempts due to closure, we (successfully) visited Bahia on a busy afternoon and opted for a self-guided tour. It took more than an hour to walk around the place, and you’d be hard-pressed to find something as picturesque. The original tile flooring and ornate woodwork was fun to take in. Here are some of our favorite shots of the palace:

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Le Jardin Secret

This not-so-secret garden is tucked into the middle of the Medina. It seemed like there was a major renovation done sometime in the last few years, but we didn’t get too caught up in the details. The photos were what we were after!

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The final roundup of our favorite restaurants in Marrakech:

Nomad – modern Moroccan cuisine w/ a nice rooftop terrace

Reem Shawarma – extremely cheap and delicious shawarma food (went 3x!)

Cafe Des Epices – quick lunch spot; go for the kefta sandwich!

Katsura – both Japanese and Thai cuisine; we ordered red curry chicken + tom yum soup

Exotic Bali – only open weekends and via reservation, this is traditional Balinese food

Le Jardin – quaint “garden” vibe w/ especially tasty meat skewers

Comptoir Darna – only recommending for the belly dancing experience; it was expensive and the food was just ok

Cafe du Poste – famous French spot with oysters and other fancy dishes

Limoni – not the best Italian restaurant ever, but it did the trick when we were craving some pasta

Shtatto –  thanks to the fast wifi, this post was written on this cafe’s comfy terrace

That’s a wrap on our Marrakech adventure–onward to Spain tomorrow afternoon!

P.S. We sincerely appreciate you for reading and following along. You can comment on this post below or send us a personal note at hello@thedailywax.com.

Elizabeth's note on long-term travel

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We had a realization this week: traveling the world for the year is not the easiest thing to do. It’d be a lot easier to pack up tonight to go home instead of the next foreign country. I wouldn’t say we are “homesick” because that makes it sound like more of a constant problem; whereas the feeling we have comes in waves and when we least expect it. We intermittently miss the stability and the people back home.  

It’s hitting us now for two reasons: one, home and Morocco are disparate worlds, and we’ve been here for almost three weeks; two, we have a ton of logistics to work out for our next 2-3 months of travel. The world is indeed our oyster, but frankly, it’s overwhelming. 

We feel pressure to see off-the-beaten-path places, but the trouble is finding them. The idea is to escape the big cities with their main attractions and tourists haphazardly wielding selfie sticks. We’ve also realized it’s challenging but necessary to find what’s native and avoid what’s been designed as tourist traps. The problem is that doing so means intensive research, more unknowns, and additional travel time.  

I felt like I was reading a well-written version of my own thoughts the other day when I opened up the August issue of Conde Nast Traveler, titled, “The New Nomad.” Melinda Stevens, the editor in chief, summed up the way we’ve been feeling about travel lately, saying:

“And yet recently I’ve begun to wonder about the joy of travel, when the world feels infinite and full of curiosity, when it illuminates itself to us, and we—backs straight, eyes blazing—shine within it. I wonder whether our yearning for it has become so intense that we’re crushing the very thing we love the most. On various trips in recent years, to small American cities, to out-of-the-way coasts, even to deserts, I have been shocked to the core by the sudden wall of us, the swarms of us, the sheer scale of our numbers…And I think this will be crucial going forward, to focus on the off-grid, the overlooked, the ungentrified, the forgotten, the places that will resonate because we have not fiddled with them, and we have not required them to become parodies of themselves.”

Melinda, if there’s any chance you ever read this, you nailed it! 

All that said, our house is rented until May and all of our belongings are in storage, so we aren’t going home! We know how we’re feeling is totally normal. Soon, we will be loving the next stop on our world tour, and I won’t be able to believe I ever wrote this post. But hey, what’s the point of this blog if we aren’t being honest about how we’re feeling right now?

But, we thoroughly enjoyed our final week in Marrakech, and we hope you’ll equally enjoy our post below about the touristy and a few not-so-touristy spots we visited.

P.S. 

Here is a link to the full Editor’s letter.  And if you want to read the full magazine, which I recommend, I thought I would share one of my favorite travel hacks - my public library app. I get tons of magazines, books, and audiobooks for free on my iPad and iPhone all with my Public Library card and an app called Libby. I don’t have room to pack or the strength to carry the real deal. Nor do I have time for the overpriced magazines found at the airport. A delayed flight isn’t as bad when you have 6 magazines and a book downloaded.   

Our guide to taking it easy in the crazy Marrakech Medina

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We originally planned to stay in Marrakech for a month.

Before we arrived, we heard several nerve-wracking stories – so many stories that we actually altered our plans!

Now we’ve been here a week and a half, play the Marrakesh Express on repeat, and wish we had more time here!

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Before we get started, here are a few keywords we added to our vocabulary!

Riad

a traditional Moroccan home with an interior garden. Luckily for us, some larger Riads were converted into mini-hotels.  


Medina

“city” in Arabic, but in Marrakech, the Medina specifically refers to the old, walled part of the city. Most of the Medina is off-limits to cars, and roads are less than 8-feet wide.

Souks

the labyrinth of markets in the middle of the Medina where you’ll be mesmerized by the handmade Moroccan goods.


The Riad of all Riads

First off, our home base, the Riad Porte Royale, is absolutely amazing. If you are coming to Marrakech, we think this place is step number one for having a good time. There are only 5 rooms so the diligent manager, Adam, and chef, Nagat, have time to get to know the guests and help them plan just about anything. The room rate includes an insanely big breakfast and upon special request, we even had a home-cooked dinner here by the pool for about $20/pp. 

When we first arrived, Adam sat down with us to tell us about the city while Nagat prepared mint tea for us. This was one of the best introductions we’ve ever had to a city. Adam patiently showed us a map of the Medina, circling the best places and drawing an X on places to avoid. He talked to us about getting around, avoiding scams, and his favorite restaurants.  We couldn’t live without the app he asked us to download called HereWeGo. This is similar to downloading an offline map on Google Maps or Maps.Me, but this app actually works here in the city! A lifesaver.  

The smaller sized Riad makes it possible to get to know the other guests as well which has been a lot of fun for us. We spent a couple of nights with the other guests, all of us with our feet in the pool after a long day exploring the Medina. There are also plenty of private lounge spaces tucked away if you’re looking for some alone time to read a book or take a nap. On Friday night, a group of us decided to save some money on a camel ride and dinner excursion by going together. That wouldn’t have happened at a typical hotel!

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The location of the Riad is also important. Here at Riad Port Royal, we are in the Medina, but we are only a 5-minute walk from the city wall where we can exit the Medina and hail a taxi.  There is a lot to do outside of the Medina, so access to taxis is helpful. Being in the Medina is key to having an authentic experience in Marrakech, but being too far into the Medina would present its own set of logistical issues. So again, this place is perfect.  

Souks

Integral to the fabric of the Medina are the souks, where artisans offer (often) handmade goods. One of our favorite daily activities has become perusing the crowded souks and mingling with the locals. 

The souk owners are often personable, convincing men, and at this point we’ve seen just about every trick in the book in terms of sales tactics. Avoid the guys who seem desperate for your business or go out of their way to make physical contact with you. No thanks!

Despite the fact that the souks can often become chaotic, we still highly recommend checking them out. There are countless Moroccan treasures hidden within. Just remember – always negotiate! 

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Our rules for the souks:

  • We act uninterested, even if we LOVE something

  • Don’t point at items (this is a quick way to start a conversation with the shop owner)

  • Ask for a price before making an offer

  • Start the back-and-forth negotiation around 10-20% of the owner’s number

  • Always have a fixed price in mind. Don’t mind walking away if the seller won’t come down on their price!  

  • The owners normally won’t let us walk away, and if they do, the product might be worth their number!

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Day trip to Essaouira

From Marrakech, there are several options for day trips to nearby cities. About a week into our stay, we were ready for a change of scenery and chose to visit Essaouria, a gorgeous beach town about 2.5 hrs to the west by car. We took a private driver which our riad manager, Adam, helped arrange. Known as The Windy City of Morocco, some of Game of Thrones was set in this little port city (we think the scenes from Slaver’s Bay). We spent the whole day walking around the Medina and people watching on the beach! Oh – and on the drive out there, we took a quick roadside pitstop to see the famous goats in trees!

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Camel riding and dinner in the desert

The desert scenery and the company were by far the highlights of our desert excursion, not necessarily the camels themselves. We felt a little bad for the camels; they were all tied together during our ride so they couldn’t roam free at all and they didn’t seem especially well taken care of by the tour group. Nonetheless, we got a kick out of riding the camels and enjoyed a wonderful dinner in a luxury tent set up in an old Berber village.  

Again, Adam from our Riad coordinated this trip for us! 

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Rug shopping

We took orders from family and had fun negotiation for some high-quality rugs in a shop called Kasr Ben Hayoune , which felt like a palace. The shop is located in the Jewish Quarter and is managed by an animated salesman named Hassan. Be prepared to stay for a long time and don’t let him make you feel bad for negotiating! They’ll also show you 20+ rugs, but don’t feel bad to walk away with just a few or none at all. Seeing all of the rugs is part of the fun! We liked this shop because we trusted the quality of the rugs and the integrity of the business.  The best part was that shipping to the USA was included in our negotiated price and handled by the shop, making that process more streamlined than expected.  

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Moroccan cuisine

Some of our favorite food so far has been eaten at the Riad, thanks to Najet!  We’ve also found ourselves at a group of restaurants with the same owner: Nomad, Le Jardin, and Cafe des Epices.  Last night we went to a place called Exotic Bali Food. If you’ve been to Bali then you’ll understand our excitement over a plate of Nasi Goreng.  Our favorite Moroccan staples include mint tea, kefta sandwiches, chicken or meatball tajines, a variety of salads, and fresh bread.

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What’s left in Morocco?

Believe it or not, there are a few things we haven’t done (yet!). For starters, we’d like to try some street food.  We were a little intimidated after a few days with upset stomachs when we first arrived, but we’re feeling brave with adjusted stomachs of steel, so street food is on the docket this week.  We still want to visit a hammam, similar to a public bath, for a traditional Moroccan spa treatment. Lastly, we are getting better, but we’d also love to get to and from our Riad without a map. That might be asking too much of ourselves, though.  


Update on our travel plans
:

We’ll be moving around quite a bit over the next few weeks, straying away from our one month in each country itinerary. Here’s where we’re heading through the first week of October.

We’ll spend one more week in Morocco before we head to Spain. In a week’s time, we’ll visit Marbella, Seville, Ciudad Real, and Madrid. This leg of the trip was planned because of Morocco’s proximity to Spain and because of a good flight we found from Madrid to our next stop, Entebbe, Uganda. 

We’re going gorilla trekking in Uganda, which involves hiking deep into the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to witness silverback gorillas in their natural habitats and communities, and then traveling to the Serengeti in Tanzania for a safari.  This portion of the trip means tons of crazy animal pictures headed your way! Then we’ll have about two weeks in Europe before taking off for India, where we’ll be back on our month-to-month schedule!  

Thanks so much for reading.  As always, send comments or messages to hello@thedailywax.com. Until next time!  

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