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The Heintzlemans do Thailand!

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Stephanie and Andy, Mike’s parents, arrived late on a Sunday night and we hit the ground running! We broke up their trip into a few days exploring the ancient city of Chiang Mai and a few days relaxing on the lazy beach of Ko Lanta island!

Chiang Mai

As we mentioned in our last post, we explored Chiang Mai for a few days by ourselves to get the lay of the land before Mike’s parents arrived! We saved the main attractions for our time with Andy and Stephanie, including a cooking class, temple tour, and a visit to an elephant sanctuary!

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Cooking class with Asia Scenic

The four of us conquered at least six different Thai dishes during our cooking class. We each had a station with a wok and had the chance to cook up all of our favorites. The cashew chicken, tom yum soup, and fried spring rolls were scarfed down particularly fast.

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Temple Tour with “Tom”

Tom was an absurdly impressive Buddhist Monk who lived in total silent isolation in a cave for six years and then in a temple on top of a mountain for four more years. He said he liked living in the cave the most, and acted like neither of the two were that big of a deal (in terms of difficulty). Then as he grew older, Tom decided to have a family and take people like us on temple tours. His days in isolation definitely left him with an urge to talk – and talk, he did!

First, we visited Doi Suthep, the famous temple on top of a mountain outside of the main city of Chiang Mai. Lots of folks visit super early to catch the sunrise but we decided to sleep in a bit and arrived around 9am. At the temple, we received a blessing from a monk and took in the views!

We learned a lot about Buddhism from Tom. Our main takeaways were that Buddhists strive to find happiness from within and to enjoy the present moment.

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Thai Massages

A Thai massage is a very different kind of massage, involving lots of stretching and no oil or lotion. And in Thailand, it’s also a very cheap kind of massage. We paid as little as $5 for an hour-long foot massage and up to $20 for a full body massage at a fancier spa.

By the time Andy and Stephanie arrived, we were pros so we took them to one of our favorite places in Chiang Mai, Lila Spa. Lila employs women who were previously incarcerated, providing them with skill development and support. A good cause and a good massage – hard to beat!

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Elephant Sanctuary!

Visiting an elephant sanctuary was on the top of our list, and since there’s an entire industry built around exploiting these animals, we were meticulous in selecting a sanctuary to visit. 

A few people recommended Elephant Nature Park, which rescues elephants from the tourism and logging industries. Although saving the elephants and then creating a new tourist activity may seem contradictory, the Elephant Nature Park rescues elephants from owners who offer elephant riding and train the elephants to do circus tricks, as well as any injured elephants that are no longer wanted by other owners. The elephants receive the medical care, land, food, and socialization that they need to thrive, and tourists are allowed to observe. 

Here are a few pictures so you can observe too!

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Favorite food spots in Chiang Mai:

  • Kanjana – the best Thai food we had in Chiang Mai! Unfortunately, we didn’t find time to go back a second time!  The veggie green curry, shrimp pad thai, pork laab, and papaya salad were spot on. This was where Andy and Stephanie enjoyed their first Thai meal! 

  • Rustic & Blue – modern, western breakfast all day in the Nimman neighborhood with delicious cold brew and herbal lemonade. Elizabeth loves the smoothie bowl! This place is relatively expensive because it is trendy and highly instagrammable, but we decided the food was worth it!

  • Riverside Restaurant – a great location with live music every night! The food was nothing to write home about, but definitely a fun place for drinks!

  • Khao Soy Fueng Fah – a low-key spot recommended by our friend Angus; Khao soy (which we have seen spelled all sorts of different ways on the internet, pronounced “cow soy”) is actually a Muslim dish that is popular in Northern Thailand. This place serves up bowls of the stuff for around $2. The dish has a very hearty flavor. We’d say it is somewhat like an Asian pot roast with noodles?? We ate 2 bowls each!

  • Goodsouls Kitchen – the spot for a huge variety of vegan or vegetarian options in Chiang Mai! We went twice.

Ko Lanta

Down south, located off the west coast of Thailand in the Andaman Sea, there’s an island called Ko Lanta. We picked this island due to its reputation for being quieter than some of the other, more common Thai islands. A few very popular destinations in this region have over-tourism issues and a serious party scene. Knowing that wouldn’t be our vibe, we did some research and happily landed on Ko Lanta.

To get there, we were picked up in a van from the Krabi airport. We then drove about an hour to a short car-ferry ride, followed by another 30-minute drive. Our hotel arranged all of this and we stayed in the same van the whole journey (even as it drove us on and off of the ferry), so it was easier than it sounds! 

We stayed at a brand new hotel called the Lazy Lodge. We scored an opening discount by contacting the owners directly via email, making us some of the first people to enjoy this beachfront haven. The risk of not having any reviews to verify our choice totally paid off with the brand new bungalows we walked into! The owners have another place on the island, Lazy Days bungalows, so they are pros at this point!

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Scooters! 

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The gang rented scooters for a day and took them on a 20-30 min. ride down to Bamboo Bay and the National Park at the end of the island.

The island was the perfect place to take a spin on nice roads with little traffic or highway driving. No bumps or bruises!

Island-hopping for a day! 

On the last day of our Heintzleman vacation, we took a boat ride to three mostly-deserted islands. We’d recommend a speedboat over a longtail boat for this day trip!

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The highlight of our day was Emerald Cave on Ko Muk island. After swimming through the Emerald Cave for a few hundred feet, we ended up on a hidden beach surrounded by rock cliffs on all sides. It was like finding a beach inside of a volcano crater.

This is a popular tourist stop, so we were shocked that we were the only people inside the cave, just hanging out on the beach by ourselves. Once we packed up and started to swim back out, we realized we had barely beat the crowds! There were rows of people, all holding on to a rope, headed through the cave to the beach. It looked like a massive conga line of tourists coming to take over “our” beach! We couldn’t stop laughing at how lucky we’d gotten!

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We stopped at two more islands throughout the day, Ko Kradan and Ko Ngai. These places seemed much more isolated than Ko Lanta and could be good options for a return trip to Thailand one day. We hadn’t heard of either of these spots until we arrived on Ko Lanta; they were much more secluded and quiet. If you’re looking for a Thai-island experience that takes you way off the beaten path, either of these places are worth considering!

Ko Muk (also spelled “Koh Mook”) – We only visited Emerald Cave, but there seem to be a few highly recommended hotels (this blog seems like a good resource).

Ko Kradan – We stopped for snorkeling and then had lunch on a secluded beach. From the secluded beach, there was a hiking trail that connected to a few hotels. 

Ko Ngai – Here, we enjoyed a few Chang beers on the beach and took a long walk. The accommodations looked rustic, but the beach seemed much quieter than Koh Lanta.

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Favorite food spots in Ko Lanta:

  • Pinto Restaurant – Authentic Thai in the Old Town of Ko Lanta.

  • Klong Khong Restaurant – Located right on the beach next door to Freedom Bar, which offered a  nightly fire dancing performance during your meal, free of charge. The food was solid but don’t go here if you’re looking for a quiet place to have a conversation!

  • Lazy Lodge (“The Lodge” restaurant) – Great international options like a feta and olive wrap, but also authentic Thai. Right on our doorstep!

Scootin' around Thailand for a couple weeks!

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Many of you have asked, What stands out about the first couple weeks in Thailand?

The answer’s simple: THE FOOD!

Seriously – we haven’t had one bad meal here so far. Fingers crossed that continues to be the case! And sorry in advance – we rarely stop to take pics before stuffing our faces, so we don’t have a ton of “foodie” pictures to share with you (guess you’ll have to come try the food for yourself...)!

Over the past couple weeks, we’ve jumped around quite a bit (see the handy map Elizabeth put together). Every five days or so, we’ve been gradually making our way from central to northern Thailand.

This was intentional. Mike’s parents are visiting right after Thanksgiving for about 10 days (!) and we wanted to get a decent feel for the country and the culture in advance of their arrival.

In just a couple weeks, we think we’ve got a pretty good handle on Thailand. Good enough to show the Heintzlemans around, at least!

Here’s what we’ve been up to so far:

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Bangkok

Before diving into this wild and wonderful city, you should know that it’s massive. Not just in population (yes, that too), but what we really mean here is that it’s an expansive area. The urban sprawl just keeps going and going… and... going.

Our 5-day experience in Bangkok was hyper-focused on the neighborhoods of Chinatown and Old Town. We had an amazing Airbnb stay above a trendy bar/restaurant in Chinatown. Our hosts, Note and Bua, turned out to be as cool as described in the Airbnb Magazine article that put us onto their place! #famous (more on that later…)


Half-Day Bike/Canal Tour

We found a great bike tour on Airbnb Experiences that included a canal ride through an unexpected part of the city. We think we rode about 15 miles and the ride took us down some smaller streets, through a coconut farm, and finally to the boat for our ride back.  There is an entire portion of Bangkok where canals are the main thoroughfares. You’ll see homes along the canals where even the mail and trash have to be dropped off and picked up by boat!

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At the end of the ride, we loaded the bikes up for the canal tour in the longboat!

At the end of the ride, we loaded the bikes up for the canal tour in the longboat!

Ba Hao Residence (our Airbnb)

We lucked up and heard about this place on Airbnb’s digital ‘Magazine’ (link) months in advance of our trip to Bangkok. To our surprise – our hosts, Bua and Note, found it hysterical when we said that’s how we had found them. They seemed to have almost forgotten about it!

These guys were great – and staying in their place truly made it an A+ experience in Bangkok. Positioned on a busy Chinatown street, popular for its handful of trendy bars, it was perfect for our quick 5-day visit.

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Amphawa Floating Market + Maeklong Railway Market

This is the ultimate cultural day-trip combo from Bangkok. Located 1.5 hours driving southwest from the city, these places famously host local commerce in authentic Thai style. 

And they’re exactly what they sound like:

  1. A market that literally floats on a river (i.e. shops = boats)

  2. A market where people shop on top of an active train railway

It’s necessary we provide a better description of Maeklong. So, again, this market really does sit directly on top of an active train rail, which has trains passing every few hours. This means the food-stall operators and shop owners have to break down their place of business, like clockwork, multiple times a day. We got lucky and arrived just before a train came through town, so take a peek at the photos below to see what we’re talking about. Madness!

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One note on the floating markets: there are a handful of others located much closer to Bangkok (or even in the city). However, we were told that these have been created in more recent years, mostly to accommodate the tourism boom Thailand has experienced. While we can’t speak to the other, we believe that for the real, authentic Thai floating market experience, you need to drive out to Amphawa!

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We actually visited both Amphawa and Maeklong on our drive down from Bangkok to Pranburi because it was perfectly along our route. The two markets are only 10 minutes apart, and you’ll only need 1-2 hours at each place to get the full experience, so a half-day tour from Bangkok works great. We highly recommend!


Favorite food spots in Bangkok:

  • Lhong Tou Cafe at Yaowarat.  Funky cafe with elevated booths 

  • Floral Cafe at Napasorn.  Delicious iced coffee and pastries

  • Nai Mong Hoi Thod.  Quintessential Chinatown street food. Try the crab omelette!

  • Thipsamai.  We waited 1hr+ in line to try their famous king prawn pad thai. Worth it! (pro tip: there’s a takeout window if you’re ok eating on the go. Also – this spot is next door to the TV star / Michelin star chef who wears the ski goggles!)

  • Ba Hao!  Upscale cocktail bar w/ Chinese inspired bar food (on the ground floor of our Airbnb)


Pranburi

This quaint little beach town is home to many of Asia’s top kiteboarders, and we happened to stay with the folks that design and manufacture THE boards all the pros use. Yet another clutch Airbnb score!

Pranburi is a quiet, but quickly up-and-coming vacation destination for foreigners and local Thai people alike. Located only ~3.5 hrs south of Bangkok (driving), it’s a great, affordable escape from the city.

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Here, we had our first scooter-renting experience of SE Asia. Our place was right on the beach, and there were only a couple walkable restaurants/stores nearby, so having a vehicle came highly recommended. The way it worked was turnkey, and worth describing:

Within 15 minutes of arrival to Pranburi, our host, Siri, arranged to have a scooter delivered. Two guys showed up on two scooters; they dropped ours off at the door and left on the other. Excellent! Once we took a minute or two to re-learn how to operate the thing, we proceeded to put it to good use all week! Right as we had finished packing up our taxi to leave, the guys from the scooter company showed up and we tossed them back the keys and (a modest amount of) cash to cover our rental. Turnkey service!

Aside from the scooter experience being a blast (mostly for Mike, but still), we’ve got a few more highlights of note!

Phraya Nakhon Cave

You can pick a number of outdoorsy mini-adventures within Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, but the main attraction is catching the morning sunlight shining on the temple deep inside the Phraya Nakhon Cave.

Yes – there’s a long, difficult hike into a cave, within a Thai national park, that ends at a beautiful, well-preserved Buddhist temple!

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Pranburi Forest Park

The perfect way to spend a morning, we definitely recommend driving 20 minutes north of town to check out the mangroves of the Pranburi Forest Park. For an hour or two, we left our scooter behind and stretched our legs for a lengthy walk in nature.

There were two unexpected surprises along the way that made our Park visit particularly memorable:

1.) The old broken bridge.

2.) The rickety river cruise.

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Favorite food spots in Pranburi:

  • Very Good Restaurant.  Our go-to spot in the area. Pretty sure we ate here four times in our six days in Pranburi. Located right by the beach, with good wifi and excellent service, we couldn’t recommend more!

  • Krua Nong Lek Jao Gao.  Our other go-to. Cheaper than ‘Very Good’ but you pay the price by having to deal with more gnats and mosquitoes. Delicious nonetheless!

  • Yammy Cafe.  Perfect breakfast spot. We loved their coffee and ordered fluffy peanut butter toast every single day.

  • Purimuntra Restaurant.  We had a traditional Thai dinner here on our last night staying with our hosts, Siri and Craig. The restaurant is a 5-minute, barefoot walk down the beachfront from their place. They introduced us to their favorite dishes along with a couple mojitos!

  • Pranberry. Randomly, this was really tasty Italian food just down the street from our place. Elizabeth loved the pasta, Mike had a massive pork chop, and we washed it all down with one of the best chocolate lava cakes we’ve ever had!

Chiang Mai

Perhaps the most popular tourist destination in all of Thailand, aside from the beautiful beach islands in the south, we had to go see what all the hype was about for ourselves. Plus, Chiang Mai is the first stop we’re making with Mike’s parents once they get in – so we invested a few days scouting things out.

We’re going to save the major highlights for our next post so we can give a more complete Chiang Mai synopsis. For now, we’ll just say that we love this place – the hype is real!


Pai

A scenic three-hour drive to the north of Chiang Mai, the village of Pai is truly one-of-a-kind!

It’s unmistakably a hippy town – dreadlocks and bare feet galore. The people are nice as can be, though, and come from all over the world to participate in the unique culture that comes with the Pai community.

Surrounded by mountains, the town sits in a valley that proves nightly panoramic sunset views. Perfect scooter country!

We actually stayed about 3km (10 minutes drive) outside of the main town on a rice farm. So having our own transportation, again, was a must. This time, we went ahead and rented, not one, but two, scooters for our 5-day stay in Pai. His and hers!

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Favorite food spots in Pai:

  • JUST EAT. Fresh, cold coconuts and the best chicken khao soi (asian noodles w/ hard noodles on top) we’ve had in Thailand.

  • Return to Simple.  Leather goods shop with a cafe upstairs.

  • Pai Siam Bar & Bistro. Corner bar in the main part of town w/ nightly live music. Didn’t try the food; great for after dinner drinks!

  • Two Sisters Restaurant. Inexpensive and all-around solid Thai food, just a bit outside town. One of only a few places that had pad see ew (noodles) on the menu, or maybe we didn’t look hard enough…

…And that’s a wrap for our first couple weeks in Thailand. Thanks for reading – hit us with questions if you plan to go soon!

Tiger Safari – Ranthambore National Park

Over the course of two days, we took three separate game drives into the park, searching for Bengal tigers. We struck gold and saw one tiger during our second drive!

At the park, we learned about the slim chances of seeing a tiger this time of year and had each come to terms with the fact that we may not see one. One guide even said there was only a 20% to 30% chance we would actually see one. We were shocked and excited when a lot of commotion started happening and the guides all started speeding in the same direction!

The fact that we saw one tiger made it all worth it – the pictures (which Mike gets credit for) look fake!